Viceroy Bali, Ubud — A Royal Escape in the Valley of the Kings

Varsha Pherwani on 23 October 2025
No trip to Bali is ever complete without a stop in Ubud — the island’s spiritual heart, nestled amidst emerald rice terraces and lush tropical valleys. After an unforgettable stay at Regent Bali Canggu (read my previous blog for the full story), our next destination was the world-renowned Viceroy Bali — a secluded sanctuary perched high above the “Valley of the Kings.”

A Scenic Journey to Ubud

The drive from Canggu to Ubud took about an hour, a journey that felt like slipping away from the lively rhythm of the coast into the serene soul of Bali. Rolling rice paddies, roadside shrines, and sleepy villages lined the way, each corner whispering a little more of the island’s charm.

As we arrived at Viceroy Bali, a warm welcome awaited — refreshing towels, fragrant frangipani garlands, and smiles that could melt away any trace of travel fatigue. The moment I stepped into the open-air lobby, surrounded by jungle views and the gentle sound of flowing water, I knew I had entered a very special place.

Where Luxury Meets Intimacy

Part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, Viceroy Bali is family-owned and houses just 40 villas, each designed to offer an intimate, personalized experience. The General Manager of the hotel personally greeted us, sharing the story of the property and its deep connection to the surrounding community.

Moments later, a buggy whisked me to my villa — the Deluxe Terrace Villa — and it was nothing short of breathtaking.

The space opened to a private infinity pool cascading into the green valley below, framed by a traditional Balinese bale cabana. It was one of those places that silences you instantly — all you can do is breathe, smile, and soak in the serenity. The mist drifting over the valley, the distant hum of cicadas, and the scent of the jungle air made it pure magic.

Of course, I couldn’t resist jumping straight into the pool — because some places are too beautiful to just admire from afar.

Sunset Evenings and Jazz Nights

That evening, after a brief property tour, we gathered at Pinstripe Bar for pre-dinner cocktails — a stunning art deco-inspired space that exudes vintage glamour. Afterward, we dined at Cascades, the resort’s signature restaurant overlooking the valley. The candlelit setting, paired with the hum of the forest, made for an unforgettable dinner.

Later, we returned to Pinstripe Bar for a nightcap. The soft glow of the bar, the mellow tunes of live jazz, and a couple of rounds of snooker set the tone for a relaxed, sophisticated evening. It was the perfect way to unwind and wrap up our first night in Ubud.

Day 2: Immersed in Nature and Local Life

The next morning, I woke to a symphony of birds and the soft blush of dawn. The valley below was veiled in mist, painting a picture-perfect postcard right outside my window.

After a quick breakfast at Cascades, we embarked on a guided nature walk led by a local Balinese staff member. We strolled through nearby villages and rice paddies, learning about the flora, fauna, and the rhythms of everyday Balinese life. There was something deeply grounding about walking those paths — no rush, just the gentle cadence of nature.

The Iconic Bali Swing

Later that morning, we headed to Aloha Ubud, home of the famous Bali Swing. Let’s be honest — if you don’t get that perfect swing shot, did you even visit Bali? Suspended over lush green valleys, wind in my hair and heart racing, it was pure exhilaration — and, of course, the photos were totally worth it!

We then made our way to Ubud town center to explore local boutiques, art markets, and grab a light bite. The vibrant chaos of Ubud — incense, laughter, color — was an experience in itself.

When I missed my hotel transfer, I decided to do what any curious traveler would: hop on a Grab scooter (Bali’s version of Uber). Zipping through winding Ubud roads on a moped was thrilling — an authentic taste of local life that I’ll never forget.

Kite Making with Wayan and Nyoman

Back at the resort, the next activity awaited — traditional kite making. Guided by local artisans Wayan and Nyoman, we learned to carve, frame, and design kites from scratch. The process — from chiseling bamboo sticks to stretching colorful satin — was meditative and joyful. Watching my finished kite flutter in the Ubud breeze was a moment of pure happiness.

Evening arrived quietly. I slipped into the infinity pool once again, floating under a canopy of stars before heading to dinner at Cascades. That night, I tried the salt-crusted sea bream — perfectly de-boned tableside, delicately seasoned, and meltingly tender. Simply divine.

Day 3: Yoga, Serenity, and Farewell

Our final morning began with a yoga session beside the resort’s main infinity pool — the crown jewel of Viceroy Bali. Set against the backdrop of the Valley of the Kings, it’s not just a place where you find peace — it’s a place where you feel peace.

After a nourishing breakfast at Cascades, it was time to bid farewell to this slice of paradise. As I gazed one last time at the mist rising over the valley, I knew that Viceroy Bali had left a lasting mark — a reminder that true luxury lies in stillness, authenticity, and the magic of feeling at home, even halfway across the world.

Final Reflections

Every corner of Viceroy Bali tells a story — of craftsmanship, culture, and connection. It’s where luxury meets heart, where every sunrise feels sacred, and every moment feels like your own.

If Canggu is the soul of the sea, Ubud is the spirit of the earth — grounding, healing, and endlessly inspiring.

Until next time, Valley of the Kings, I’ll be dreaming of your emerald horizons.