Varanasi: Where the Sacred Meets the Surreal

Varsha Pherwani on 04 September 2025
A Travel Counsellor’s 3-Day Journey Through India’s Spiritual Heart

Varanasi - A pilgrimage, a paradox, and the promise of return.

Why Varanasi?

This wasn’t just another trip—it was personal. I was in Mumbai visiting my parents and decided to finally tick off a long-awaited bucket list destination: Varanasi. Even better, my dear friend Tanya joined me for this spiritual and cultural escape—a reunion and a rediscovery rolled into one.

I wanted to dig deep. To go back to the roots. To experience India at its most ancient, raw, and spiritual.

Getting There

I flew from Dubai to Mumbai with Indigo and spent a few nights at home before heading to Varanasi. From Mumbai, we took a direct 2.5-hour flight on Air India Express to Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport.

DAY 1: A Pilgrimage Begins

Assi Ghat & Ganga Aarti

We stayed at Vijaygarh Kothi, a charming heritage homestay just 2 minutes from Assi Ghat. Nothing fancy—just comfort, cleanliness, and old-world soul.

At 5:00 AM, we joined the spiritual masses at Assi Ghat for the Ganga Aarti. Chants, diyas, conches, and a river kissed by sunrise— you don’t just watch the Aarti, you feel it in your bones.

I came to Varanasi ready to surrender… But the river had risen, the ghats submerged. No entry. As if Ma Ganga whispered: “Accumulate more. Come again. Whole. Once and for all.”

Shri Kaal Bhairav Temple

Our next stop was to seek permission from the guardian deity of Kashi—Shri Kaal Bhairav. Local legend says no one, not even the gods, enter the city without his blessing. This temple is intense, powerful, and necessary.

Temple Tip: Most temples don’t allow phones or photography. There are no entry fees, but expect to pay INR 300 - 500 ( USD 10 - 12 ) to the locker staff outside. This typically includes flower offerings and safekeeping of your belongings.

DAY 2: Into the Heart of Banaras

Chaos, Color, Collision

We explored Varanasi the local way—by rickshaw. The streets are sensory overload: honking horns, sacred cows, the aroma of incense, and the clatter of temple bells. It’s wild, intense, and not for the faint-hearted.

India on the road is a full-blown assault on the senses—an adventure best suited for the bold and the resilient.

Bati Chokha Lunch

For lunch, we dined at Bati Chokha at Anand Mandir. I ordered the roti thali, Tanya had the special Bati Chokha thali. Both were wholesome, homestyle, and deeply satisfying—like a grandmother’s blessing on a plate.

Foodie Tip: While Banaras is known for its chaat and street food, it’s best to avoid raw or street-prepared items during monsoon. Stick to trusted cafes and always carry bottled water.

Chai Sutta Café

A short stroll from Assi Ghat is the humble Chai Sutta Café—famous for its tea served in traditional kulhad (clay pots). Despite the cheeky name, smoking isn’t allowed here. Just pure chai vibes.

Banarasi Silk

In the same complex as Bati Chokha, we stumbled into a small Banarasi silk store. For a proper shopping experience, visit Albeli—a popular emporium among locals and domestic travellers. Look for authentic zari work, feel the weave, and get lost in six yards of artistry.

DAY 3: Peace, Buddha, and the Grand Finale

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple

We began the day with blessings at this peaceful temple, known for removing obstacles and offering protection to devotees.

Sarnath

A short drive from Varanasi lies Sarnath—the sacred site where Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon, known as Dharmachakra Pravartana (Turning of the Wheel of Dharma). The peace here is tangible.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

Our final stop—Kashi Vishwanath, the crown jewel of Varanasi. We arrived just before the 10:30 PM Aarti and were swept into a divine current of chanting, energy, and stillness.

No photos. No distractions. Just presence. Time stood still.

Reflections from the Ghat

I went to the Ganges to wash away my sins… But the river didn’t let me in.

In that moment, I understood: Banaras doesn’t give you what you want—it gives you what you need.

As a travel counsellor, I’ve helped people explore India for years. But this journey reminded me—India isn’t just a destination. It’s an experience of surrender, of letting go, of being fully present.

Banaras is not just a place. It is a Tirtha—a crossing between the mortal and the divine. I went in with questions. I came back with silence. And the promise of return.

Travel Tip: If you’re flying from the UAE, there are direct flights from Sharjah to Varanasi via Air India —a great option for travellers in the region.

Quick Travel Guide to Varanasi

Best Time to Visit: October to March – Pleasant weather and manageable river levels.

Local Transport: Cycle & auto rickshaws rule the roads. Walking is often the best way to explore the ghats and narrow alleys. No Ubers near the ghats – go local.

What to Wear: Modest clothing (especially for temples) Comfortable walking shoes A light scarf or shawl for temple visits

Safety Tips: Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas Stick to bottled water Always negotiate rickshaw fares

Planning your own journey to the soul of India?

Whether you’re seeking spirituality, culture, or just a deeper connection—Varanasi delivers in ways no itinerary can predict.

As a travel counsellor, I help travellers curate authentic, soulful experiences across India—from heritage stays to spiritual circuits.

Get in touch to start planning your own sacred adventure. Let the Ganges call you… when it’s time.