Beautiful Budapest

Last December I was researching destinations for a family break to visit some Christmas Markets. My kids are 12 and 13 years old and like many parents, I dread the “Urg this is sooo boring” attitude that can be thrown at us on holiday. I needed a city that could entertain! And Budapest’s diverse offerings did not disappoint! Budapest is a fantastic city to explore all year round and is especially magical during December's festive season. I booked last-minute, direct flights with Wizz Air from Abu Dhabi. For the first time ever, we flew with just hand luggage and one 20kg suitcase. Don't worry, we stayed in a self-catering apartment with a washing machine.

I wanted the least amount of hassle with packing as it was just before Christmas, it was literally "throw some toasty, warm clothes in a bag everyone; we are going to Budapest...Oh, and don't forget your swimmers!"

Yes, although the temperature is around freezing most days, you can experience the outdoor geothermal hot baths of Budapest all year round. What better time than when it's freezing cold and the steam coming off the water is so thick you can barely see in front of you? We visited the famous Szechenyi Baths housed in a beautiful 100-year-old revival baroque style building located in the beautiful and expansive City Park. There are indoor and outdoor pools, whirlpools and massages available. You can even book private baths and enjoy beer and wine in them. Take a waterproof cover for your phone so you can get those all-important social media shots.

Another great activity in City Park is Ice skating. The seasonal outdoor rink was originally opened in 1870 and is one of the oldest and largest in Europe. It’s not far from the Szechenyi Baths and it’s the perfect pass time for a cold and crisp sunny afternoon.

A great way to tour the city, especially during the colder season is to jump on the tram and the train. The system is super easy to navigate through google maps (we treated it like a navigation treasure hunt). You can obtain a well-priced weekly pass from machines at the stops. This gives you unlimited use each day. So even if you find you’ve gone in the wrong direction, you can just hop off and hop back on in the right direction….yes I’m speaking from experience.

Budapest has several Christmas Markets dotted about the city but the largest is at Vorosmarty Square in the popular downtown district. The markets run from late November to late December. There is plenty of goulash, strudels, waffles, chimney cakes and hot wine to partake in and plenty of little novelty Christmas souvenirs and fluffy warm hats on sale. Expect to pay a more inflated price for your food and souvenirs at the markets. Plenty of shops in this pedestrian area sell similar knick-knacks and we picked up some very cute hats far better priced than at the markets.

An entertaining and quirky highlight for us was our discovery of the Pinball Museum (www.flippermuzeum.hu). We spend a good couple of hours in these basement rooms filled, not only with old pinball machines, but arcade games dating back to the ’70s, ’80s, ’90s and ’00s. Even some from the 1950s. And you can play all the games to your hearts content. I would recommend a visit. It was great amusement for the kids and quite the nostalgia trip for my husband and me.

For dining out, like many European cities, there is plenty of choice in Budapest. As always, those popular independent eateries with five-star google reviews often require prior booking. If you just turn up at a popular dining hour you might be turned away or given a waiting time. Our favourite was the Oriental Soup House with its steaming hot vats of broth (not exactly local fayre but delicious all the same). Make sure you book, it’s worth it, the soup was just the ticket after a long day of sightseeing out in the cold.

Budapest is split by the Danube River and both sides are well connected by several bridges. The huge Parliament building that proudly stands on the banks of the Danube is the Pest side. On the other side of the Danube where the Buda Castle rises on Castle hill is the Buda side. You can walk or take the tram to the Buda side and save your legs by riding the historic Funicular to Buda Castle. At the time of writing the Buda castle area was undergoing significant renovations to restore the buildings to their former glory. There is much to learn about the history of Budapest, the royal family and the devastation the castle endured during the second world war. It’s a must for history boffins and an architectural delight, especially during sunset when the views of the Danube and the Pest side are at their prettiest. Another interesting attraction we found on this side of the river was the Labyrinth or Budapest Maze. It’s a labyrinth of underground caves that have had multiuse over time. Providing shelter during the Middle Ages to providing shelter from bombs in WWII. The caves now house some random exhibitions and some intriguing information about Count Dracula’s detention there. They are fun and spooky to explore and will offer some respite from the cold if the kids are starting to complain. It’s worth taking an organised tour of Budapest to learn about its incredible past and see many of its historical buildings and monuments. There is the largest Synagogue in Europe (the second largest in the world), the magnificent Parliament buildings, St Stephens Basilica (that houses the macabre mummified right hand of St Stephen) and where you will find a small ice rink and another Christmas market. On the riverbank, you will find the haunting ‘Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial. These iron shoes are in remembrance of the Jews who were shot on the banks of the Danube during the second world war.

Budapest is a city with a bounty of attractions and activities with plentiful eateries. It has something to offer on every level and can be enjoyed throughout the year. George Ezra is not wrong; Budapest is like a ‘Hidden treasure chest’ with plenty to discover with each visit.