Seychelles: 14 Days in Paradise, Almost 20 Years Later
Some places you visit once and remember fondly. And then there are places you return to almost 20 years later and realise they were every bit as special as you remembered. For me, that place is the Seychelles. I first visited in 2007 on my honeymoon. Fast forward to now, and I've just returned from 14 incredible days with my family, split between Mahé and Desroches Island. I'll admit, I was slightly nervous about going back. Would it still feel as untouched? Would the beaches live up to my memories? Had the Seychelles become too developed? Thankfully, it hadn't. If anything, I loved it even more.
Why Seychelles?
If you're looking for a tropical holiday that feels uncommercialised, rural and a little bit raw, the Seychelles is hard to beat.
This isn't a destination of huge hotel complexes, endless tourist strips and crowds.
Instead, think tiny airports, winding roads, lush mountains, local villages, granite boulders, soft white sand and water that looks almost too blue to be real.
It feels relaxed. Natural. Unhurried.
And while the Seychelles certainly has some spectacular luxury resorts, it hasn't lost that wonderful feeling of being somewhere genuinely special and slightly removed from the rest of the world.
The secret? Don't stay on one island
This is probably our biggest piece of advice if you're planning a trip.
See more than one island.
The Seychelles is an archipelago of more than 100 islands, and each has a very different feel.
Mahé is the main island and the perfect place to start. It's the largest and most developed, but there's still plenty of local life, beautiful beaches, mountain scenery and little pockets to explore. You can hire a car, drive around, stop wherever takes your fancy and discover beaches and restaurants along the way.
Then there are islands such as Praslin and La Digue, each with their own character, as well as the more remote private islands where the pace slows down even further.
Island hopping is relatively straightforward, with ferries connecting the main islands and domestic flights serving some of the more remote destinations.
And that contrast is what makes a Seychelles trip so good.
You can have a few days exploring, eating locally and getting out and about on Mahé, followed by several days doing absolutely nothing on a remote island.
That was exactly the balance we wanted.
Mahé: explore, eat, wander
Mahé gives you freedom.
It's big enough to keep you busy but small enough to explore without feeling overwhelmed.
We loved driving around the island, discovering different beaches, stopping for food and simply seeing where the road took us.
There are hikes, boat trips, snorkelling, markets and plenty of opportunities to experience a little of everyday Seychellois life.
And then, of course, there are the beaches.
They really are as beautiful as you imagine.
But for me, it's not just the scenery. It's the fact that you can still find places that feel wonderfully quiet.
Desroches: switch off completely
Then came Desroches.
And what a contrast.
If Mahé is about exploring, Desroches is about switching off.
Remote, peaceful and surrounded by beautiful stretches of sand, it's the sort of place where your days quickly become very simple.
Cycle around the island.
Swim.
Snorkel.
Eat.
Read.
Walk.
Repeat.
There was no need to fill every day with activities. And travelling as a family, that was exactly what we needed.
It felt like the perfect way to finish our trip.
Where should you stay?
There is a surprisingly wide range of accommodation in the Seychelles.
You have everything from locally owned guesthouses and self-catering apartments to boutique hotels and some seriously spectacular luxury resorts.
And you don't necessarily need to stay in a five-star resort to have an incredible Seychelles experience.
For families especially, self-catering or smaller locally run properties can be a great option on Mahé or the other main islands. You get more space, greater flexibility and the opportunity to experience a little more of the local side of the islands.
Then, if your budget allows, you can splurge on a few nights somewhere truly special.
That's probably how we'd do it again.
Mix it up.
The Seychelles isn't cheap, particularly once you move into the luxury private-island category, but there are different levels of accommodation available. You can make the trip more accessible by staying in smaller properties and save the big splurge for a few nights somewhere unforgettable.
And yes, it's brilliant for families
The Seychelles may have a reputation as a honeymoon destination, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for families.
There is so much for children to enjoy without everything being centred around organised entertainment.
Beaches, swimming, snorkelling, cycling, wildlife, boat trips and plenty of space to explore.
It's the kind of holiday where the surroundings do most of the entertaining.
And honestly, that's quite refreshing.
Would I go back?
Absolutely.
That's probably the biggest compliment I can give it.
When I left the Seychelles after my honeymoon in 2007, I wondered if I'd ever find somewhere that lived up to it.
Nearly 20 years later, I came back with my family and realised I didn't need to find somewhere else.
The Seychelles still has that rare combination of natural beauty, luxury, simplicity and authenticity.
Our advice?
Don't just pick one resort and stay there.
Island hop. Explore Mahé. Experience another island. Mix your accommodation. Slow down.
And most importantly, leave some time to do absolutely nothing.
Because sometimes, in the Seychelles,
doing nothing is the best part.
