16 October 2016

Thanks to a century-old family property, I spent a large part of my holidays in close proximity to St-Tropez since my early childhood. Having just enjoyed one more sojourn there, I cannot resist sharing my thoughts and possibly debunking some myths about that world-famous French Riviera resort. The very name of Saint-Tropez often evokes a glitzy resort, a playground for the rich and famous, an overpriced heaven for mega-yachts and luxury mansions hidden away beyond guarded gates. In fact, this small coastal settlement has retained all the charm of the Provence villages, with its narrow streets, markets and gardens. Most typical of St-Tropez in particular are the colourful houses that line the semi-circular harbour; the unique red and yellow church bell tower that surges above the beige and ochre-tiled roofs; and the Citadel that overlooks it all since the 17th century. My favourite daily jaunt around St-Tropez consists of an early breakfast, preferably on the narrow balcony of the Sube Hotel, just above Bailiff Suffren’s statue and the whole harbour. For more than 4 or 5 persons, you’ll be better off seeking a table on one of the numerous café terraces. Other popular spots are ‘La Ponche’, the former fishermen’s diminutive and most charming harbour; and the ‘Place des Lices’, a real temple for the game of ‘pétanque’. Early mornings are also the best time to wander around the pedestrian streets among the locals going about their daily business or just sitting there, enjoying the sounds of chipping birds. I usually complete my excursion with the daily fish market for the morning’s catch and the provençal market on the ‘Place des Lices’ (Tuesdays and Saturdays) for anything else. I head out of town before 10am, either home or toward the Plage des Salins and its eponymous restaurant. The peace and the greenery of the countryside along the 3 kilometres between the heart of St-Tropez and the beach are amazing, just outside one of the world’s most famous resorts. Pre-book at least a day earlier for a table with feet in the sand and also if you want the very local ‘aïoli’ for lunch (Fridays only). I prefer their outstanding grilled ‘loup’ (seabass). St-Tropez’s museums are worth a visit. The ‘Musée de l’Annonciade’ houses works by famous painters who once visited or lived here; it is a true testimony to the age-old charm of the place, which they each captured in their own way, yet with one common point: their use of vibrant colours. This little museum’s home is a disaffected church right on the harbour and a full tour will take less than an hour. In the ‘Citadelle’, which has been protecting the town since the early 17th century, the recently completed Maritime History museum covers the history of St-Tropez and its inhabitants, showcasing period exhibits whilst using the latest audio and digital enhancements; good for kids, too! There is also a ‘Musée de la Gendarmerie et du Cinéma’, which I suppose may appeal mostly to the French speakers, and a Butterfly museum. From April to September, St-Tropez and its surroundings host a vast number of events appealing to a wide variety of audiences. To name just a few: a traditional Mediterranean boat festival; numerous vintage car, motorbike and even vintage Vespa scooters events; St-Tropez’s own spectacular three-day ‘Bravade’ (458th annual edition!) celebrating its history in music and colourful parades with period uniforms and costumes; numerous art exhibitions and concerts; the Giraglia Rolex Cup regatta; an international ‘pétanque’ competition; and the world-famous, week-long ‘Voiles de Saint Tropez’ (formerly ‘La Nioulargue’), mixing avant-garde Wally boats, racing 15MJIs and superb vintage ships. Cruises aboard motor launches are available during ‘Les Voiles’ at a very reasonable price to get out on the water and admire the vessels up close and in action, with excellent commentaries about the ships, their history and their crews. With that and a number of fine sand beaches and small creeks lining the peninsula, here is your invitation to discover or rediscover St Tropez! Note: a great number of restaurants and shops close during the low season, from October to Easter. For more information and to book your own experience, do not hesitate to contact me on frederic.bardin@travelcounsellors.ae.