Houseboat

Kerala: India's perfect first chapter

Lisa Foley on 19 Jun 2026

India is a destination that many Dubai residents circle on their travel list without ever quite committing to. It feels big, complex, overwhelming, and somehow always edged out by somewhere more straightforward. Kerala, though, is different. It is India in soft focus: lush, generous, and remarkably easy to fall into. I recently spent eight nights travelling through four very different corners of the state, Fort Kochi, Periyar, Kumarakom, and Mararikulam, and returned with a clear view of where it delivers, where it surprises, and where it asks you to adjust your expectations. This post is that honest account.

The honest overview

The comparisons to Sri Lanka are hard to avoid. The scenery, the nature, the culture, the coastal stretches, the long scenic drives between destinations, it all rhymes. If Sri Lanka was your entry point to South Asian travel, Kerala will feel like a conversation you already know how to have. That is not a criticism; it is a reassurance. Kerala is approachable, and that is genuinely rare for first time India travellers.

The food and the people are where Kerala quietly exceeds expectations. The cuisine is fragrant, fresh, and wildly underrated: coconut based curries, seafood cooked with turmeric and tamarind, appam served with stew at breakfast. And the warmth of the people you meet along the way adds a texture that no itinerary can quite capture on paper.

What to know about the hotels

Here is the one thing I want every Dubai based traveller to hear before they book: a five star rating in Kerala does not translate to five star in the UAE. This is not a flaw in the destination, it is simply a different value system. The luxury here is rustic, nature connected, and character led rather than polished and gleaming.

Arrive with calibrated expectations and you will be charmed. Arrive expecting a St Regis and you will be disappointed. Think beautifully maintained heritage properties, rooms that open to tropical gardens, outdoor showers, birdsong at breakfast. The CGH Earth collection, Brunton Boatyard in Kochi, Spice Village in Periyar, Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom, Marari Beach Resort on the coast, captures this ethos well. These are thoughtful, soulful hotels. They are not slick. And for the right traveller, that is entirely the point.

Destination by destination

01. Kochi — 2 nights, Brunton Boatyard
Fort Kochi is one of those rare places where history layers visibly: Portuguese fortifications, Dutch architecture, a functioning Jewish quarter, and Chinese fishing nets still operated by hand on the waterfront. A tuk tuk tour covers it all beautifully, and the Kathakali dance performance in the evening is worth every minute. Two nights here is the right amount of time.

02. Periyar — 2 nights, Spice Village
This is the one destination where I would be selective about who I recommend it to. The drive from Kochi takes around five hours through the Cardamom Hills, genuinely beautiful, but long, and Periyar rewards guests who are genuinely drawn to hiking, wildlife, and nature walks. With younger children or travellers who prefer a slower pace, it can feel like a lot of effort for a modest return. For the nature obsessed traveller, however, it is special. The guided walk through Periyar National Park, the spice garden visit, the forested cottage setting at Spice Village, it is a very particular kind of immersion that not everyone will want, but those who do will love it.

03. Kumarakom — 2 nights, Coconut Lagoon
This is where Kerala clicks into its most iconic register. Coconut Lagoon is accessed by boat, which sets the tone immediately, you are suddenly in a world of waterways, birdlife, and palm fringed canals. A houseboat cruise on Vembanad Lake is dreamy at any time of day. Kumarakom sits around two to two and a half hours from Kochi airport, which makes it genuinely viable as a long weekend destination from Dubai. This is the part of Kerala I would most readily recommend to clients wanting a quick reset.

04. Mararikulam — 2 nights, Marari Beach Resort
The final stretch brings you to the coast. Marari Beach Resort offers exactly what it promises: a wide, relatively quiet beach, cottage style accommodation set among palms, and a genuinely laid back rhythm. It is the kind of place where the days slow right down, the agenda empties out, and that feels like a gift rather than a lack. Like Kumarakom, it sits around two to two and a half hours from the airport, another strong candidate for a standalone short break from the UAE.

When to go

Kerala has three distinct seasons, and the timing of your visit matters more here than in many destinations, particularly because the monsoon is not just a few grey days but a sustained, heavy, and at times disruptive event.

Sweet spot: October to March
The ideal window. Warm, clear, and comfortable with temperatures between 18°C and 30°C. October and November are lush from the rains and quieter on the ground. December to February is peak season, busier and pricier, but the most reliable weather of the year. Best for backwaters and beach.

Shoulder: April to May
Hot and humid on the coast, but the hill stations of Munnar and Wayanad come into their own. Good for budget travellers willing to trade beach comfort for quieter crowds and cooler highlands.

Avoid: June to September
Southwest monsoon. Heavy daily rain, high humidity, and occasional flooding. Outdoor activities including trekking become impractical. Some hotels offer discounted rates, but this is not the Kerala experience most travellers are after.

Planning a trip to Kerala? I can put together a personalised itinerary, whether that is the full circuit or a long weekend in the backwaters.

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