Experiencing Japan's Cherry Blossom Season
Japan’s cherry blossom season unfolds gradually, starting in the south in Okinawa from mid January to February, moving north through March and April, and finally reaching Hokkaido in May.
Tokyo
Our ten night adventure began in Tokyo, where we were lucky enough to see the sakura in full bloom thanks to unseasonably mild weather. We wanted to balance the calm of Tokyo’s parks, perfect for letting the kids run free, with the city’s endless entertainment options.
At the top of our list was Takeshita Street, Harajuku’s famous shopping strip. This bustling area was a sensory overload of candy shops, extravagant treats, anime and unique fashion - a child’s paradise.
My eldest daughter is obsessed with all things sea life, so we headed to Tsukiji Fish Market, for many years the world’s largest fish market. While the inner market has moved to Toyosu, the outer market was a delight, with narrow lanes filled with food stalls and shops selling Japanese knives and beautiful crockery. We enjoyed a sushi lunch while the girls were glued to televised sumo wrestling, soaking up the atmosphere around us.
No trip to Tokyo feels complete without experiencing the famous Shibuya Crossing, often described as the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. For me, this iconic landmark sums up Tokyo: action in every direction, surrounded by towering buildings and neon lights. After a few fun crossings, we treated ourselves to a hot chocolate at the huge Starbucks opposite Shibuya Station, where you get a brilliant bird’s eye view of the organised chaos below.
Hakone
After three full days in Tokyo, and tens of thousands of steps on the clock, we headed east to Hakone for a change of pace and the scenic views along the Hakone loop. Unfortunately, the weather had other ideas. We made it as far as the Open Air Museum (well, the café at least) before torrential rain and strong winds sent us back to our ryokan to dry off.
The silver lining was having time to enjoy the hotel’s onsen. After carefully checking the rules, etiquette and some help from some local ladies, my daughter and I braved the experience, and it turned out to be the perfect end to a chilly, stormy day.
Tip: If you are short on time and cannot fit Hakone into your itinerary, you can often catch glimpses of Mt Fuji from the Tokaido Shinkansen.
Kyoto
The next day, we left the rain behind and hopped back on the bullet train to Kyoto. With our Haribo supplies replenished and promises of ice cream, we had a shortlist of must see sights for our four night stay. With over 2,000 temples in Kyoto alone, prioritising was essential.
Our first stop was Ginkaku ji (the Silver Pavilion), an elegant temple surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens. We paired our visit with a walk along the nearby Philosopher’s Path, a picturesque canal lined with cherry blossom, where we were once again lucky, to see the sakura in full bloom.
Despite the crowds, the Higashiyama district quickly became my favourite area in Kyoto, and possibly in all of Japan. Wandering its narrow streets, lined with wooden buildings and traditional shops, felt like stepping back in time.
We also visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. It was busy when we went, but still completely captivating. If you have time, it is worth hiking to the top of the hill for lovely valley views on the other side.
Another highlight was Kinkaku ji, the Golden Pavilion, known for its top two floors covered in gold leaf. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was one of the most beautiful temples we saw, and it is hard to believe it has been rebuilt twice, most recently in 1995.
Tip: For a break from temples and shrines, we spent our third day at the aquarium in Osaka, just under an hour by train from Kyoto. It is a fantastic outing for families.
On our final day, we headed to Fushimi Inari Taisha, the most important shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. The trail of bright orange torii gates leads through the woods of Mount Inari, which stands at 233 metres. The hike to the summit and back takes around 2 to 3 hours, and we quickly lost count of the gates (there are roughly 10,000). We made it to the top, and the view back over Kyoto made every step worthwhile.
As we left Japan, our hearts were full, our step counts smashed, and we were already talking about when we might return to this incredible country.