Spain. The Old and the New.

Claudia Corbelli on 08 April 2017
It's become customary in our family to meet up and spend the Christmas festivities somewhere in Europe and this time was the turn of Spain. Valencia was the main destination of our visit, but Barcelona was the logical entry and exit point due to the international air connections from our Dubai base; an enticing two-day taste test left us with a strong desire to return one day and do the city and its cuisine justice.

After a few days in Barcelona you could be excused for wondering if you had not yet reached Spain but rather a neighbouring country known as Catalonia. It is in fact already recognised in its own and Spain's constitution as "an autonomous community of Spain" with the official status as a "nationality". It’s soon apparent after a short time there that the Catalans are fiercely parochial. For instance, it is now law that all public signs and restaurant menus must be written in Catalan as well as Spanish. It's also a regular topic of conversation on the street and overtly expressed as I observed by a loud toast "to Catalonia" by a group of birthday party guests on the next table at one restaurant. During the short taxi ride from the airport the friendly driver was more than willing to give us a sightseeing guide mixed with a quick lesson in current day politics. He pointed out the old Arenas de Barcelona, which has now been turned into a shopping centre, a likely fate for the other remaining bull fighting rings in Catalonia since the sport is now officially banned. A little surprised that the animal protection lobby has had such a strong influence, we were soon corrected that it's much more to do with the fact that bull fighting is a traditional Spanish not Catalonian sport. Its ban therefore is a result of Catalonia's desire to distance itself culturally from the rest of Spain rather than a desire to champion the ideals of animal liberation.

For a short visit staying in the old town area is definitely the way to go. Everything is in short walking distance and the myriad of small lane ways lined with small bars, restaurants and boutiques will easily occupy your daylight and night time hours. It’s one of those places that really should be appreciated by random wanderings without being too concerned about where you are heading or indeed taking the most direct route. Every lane has its surprises and every small communal square has its own special ambience so put the map in the back pocket and walk. Hence our chosen accommodation, Catalonia Catedral in Carrer dels Arcs just near the Barcelona Cathedral, was perfectly located. It's a picturesque old building that's benefited from a substantial renovation which means it has maintained much of its traditional charm but gained some welcome modern comforts. Having said that, you really shouldn't miss the area known as El Born, just north of Via Laietana, especially if you like to shop in small private label shops rather than the local international known chains like Zara, Massimo Dutti, Blanco, Mango and Desigual, which are seemingly on every other street corner. The other area worth exploring is the Gothic precinct which is conveniently right next to El Born. If you want some nightlife this is definitely the place to head but we got the feeling there were some parts you'd be advised not to roam around too late on your own, especially if you're a woman. It is also a great area to stay given its proximity to so much of what you'll want to see.

We reached Valencia in a 3-hour train ride along the coast. In some respects, Valencia is a lot like Barcelona and much of my travel advice would also apply here: stay in the old town, discover the laneways and streets on foot and soak in the atmosphere from a sidewalk café.

It's one of the most striking features of both cities that you'd be hard pressed to walk more than 50 metres without passing at least one restaurant, bar or café. Most offer outside seating out of necessity as the shop space is often barely enough to accommodate a kitchen; thankfully winter still has a very temperate climate which lends itself perfectly to fresh air dining. But be warned, Valencia is a tease for the indecisive. The plethora of café and restaurant options means that the simple act of choosing a place to eat can become a major undertaking. I'd like to say you couldn't go wrong but our experience was that quality can be a bit hit and miss so a little consideration is worth while. The best strategy, as always, seems to be to try to head for where the locals go and avoid those places where foreign languages are the norm. On the topic of things culinary, stop over at an Horchateria, for an horchata of course, a traditional local beverage made of almonds, sesame seeds, rice, barley and tiger nuts, which is a perfect refreshment during the warmer months. One of the best known in Valencia is Horchateria de Santa Catalina whose interior is as much a draw card as its namesake item on the menu.

Valencia is also the home of Paella and you'll have no problems finding it on the menu, but again do some research to find a place with a good reputation. A good option is to try one of the many restaurants along Paseo Maritimo on the southern end of the beach, near the Formula One Grand Prix track. From the Old Town you can get there by metro (tramway) or a bus in about 20 minutes. En route you'll see a little of the suburban Valencia where the locals spend their lives as opposed to the Valencia that's mostly the domain of visitors.

In the same general vicinity, not far from the Grand Prix track on the harbourside, is one of modern architectures greatest shrines. The sprawling precinct known as The City of Arts and Sciences which is made up of four attractions: The Hemisferic (IMAX Theatre), the Principe Felipe Science Museum, the Oceanografico (Europe's largest aquarium), The Agora (multi functional event venue), the Umbracle (landscaped palm tree lined atrium) and the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia (performing arts centre). Designed by one of Spain's great modern day architects, Santiago Calatrava, it is a must visit for anyone who appreciates beautiful aesthetics.

Like many culturally mature and forward looking European cities, Valencia for all its beautiful historic buildings and monuments has proudly fostered contemporary architectural design. The 1990's signaled its transformation from an industrial city to a modern vibrant and popular tourist destination. It was during this period that not only many of its new age landmarks were created but many of its most significant historic ones also restored. So much of its appeal, like the country itself, is its combination of many things old and new.

Whatever your personal preference you'll find more than a few aspects of Barcelona and Valencia that will appeal and have you thinking about the next visit, as you reluctantly head to the airport to leave.