Cambodia. Emerging out of the ruins.
But Cambodia's recent thrust into the world of international mass tourism has preempted a need for some attempt at systematic processes. Evidence of which is the somewhat comical and certainly entertaining display that awaits visitors as their passport is handled by no less than 15 immigration officers for visa processing. Surprisingly it takes just a few minutes and you're on your way.
Apart from a convenient entry point, Siem Reap is a must see on any visit to Cambodia. In fact it’s worth a visit alone even if you don't have time to explore other parts of the country.
The ancient Khmer temples that litter the landscape around Siem Reap are the tourist icon of the country. And it's not just foreigners that associate the country so intimately with its temples; the Cambodians themselves have proudly placed Angkor Wat on their national flag. The number of temples accessible from Siem Reap are numerous and the distance they cover is not to be underestimated in a misguided attempt to see too many. You really aren't likely to be able to take in more than ten temples over 2 days. Angkor Wat alone will take the best part of half a day, not to mention the immense 10km square Angkor Thom. Everyone has their personal favorites but my must see list would include: Ta Prohm, known as the jungle temple due the way the rainforest trees have wrapped their roots around the temple in a perversely protective yet destructive means of coexistence. Bateay Srei Womens Citadel, for its distinctly pink coloured stone, sense of small scale intimacy and relatively intact fine architecture. Bayon, with its 200 rather whimsical smiling faces carved on 42 towers. And of course Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, which are undoubtedly the most impressive for scale and sheer awe value. One word of advice: get yourself a guide who can help you explain the significance of these marvellous treasures. It'll also insure you find the most efficient route between sites and save you time.
Siem Reap itself has a charm and vibrancy all of its own. Conveniently, the main tourist heart of the city is very compact encompassed by a few city blocks. It's a bit like any number of Thailand tourist hubs in terms of its nightlife and sense of energy but without the weird freaky undesirable element. For now at least, it's a nice balance for those that want a bit of action at night, good shopping and an excellent range of restaurants. Despite the poor state of repair and narrow roads, motor vehicles and bicycles coexist remarkably well and I felt quite safe getting around on a bike sans helmet than in most modern cities.
If you are up for a day's cycling, an ideal destination is the floating villages. On route you will pass many villages with houses squeezed between roadway and waterway, most of which are built suspended over water. It gives you an up-close and intimate insight into the daily lives of some of Cambodia's less privileged and well worth experiencing. The floating villages themselves are amazing. For generations these people have lived in floating houses on the Tonle Sap Lake with no land at all for animals, crops etc. The solution is floating pens to raise pigs, chickens etc. and naturally a healthy diet of fish. Children get to the floating school by canoe or in large round plastic washing tubs.
Beyond Siem Reap there is the Cambodia of flat green rice fields, mountain villages, congested urban neighbourhoods brimming with constant activity and picturesque beachside towns offering amazing seafood delights. Here’s some highlights.
If you like the hustle and bustle of a large South East Asian city then Phnom Penh is worth a day or two, but I personally wouldn't devote much more than that. One of the highlights for all the wrong reasons is Tuol Seng Genocide Museum (s-21 Prison) where Pol Pot inflicted some of his most heinous atrocities against his own people. I highly recommend doing some reading on the topic in advance or watching the film The Killing Fields; it will put a lot of things into perspective and give you a deep respect for the resilience of the Cambodian people. If Pol Pot wasn't able to permanently wipe a smile from their faces I doubt anything could.
With jaded nerves and a heavy heart after Phnom Penh you're best advised to seek the kind of calming influence only the seaside can provide. Two of the most interesting and picturesque towns on Cambodia's short southern coastline are Kep and Kampot. Kep is not much more than a small village now but the highlight is the fresh crabs. There are a row of restaurants come shacks on the waters edge so take your pick, order your fresh crab straight from the sea in front of the restaurant and enjoy – that you certainly will. I highly recommend the fried pepper cab. The pepper of course is from nearby Kampot for which it is famous worldwide, having served the finest restaurants of France for many years. Kampot is a larger town on the banks of the Kampong Bay River. Its appeal is its colonial buildings most of which have that magical charm of original ornate grandeur masked with dilapidated neglect.
The last destination on our 18-day holiday was the mountain region of Mondolkiri, which is about 8 hours north east by car from the capital. The altitude and rolling forested hills provide a much cooler climate and fresher air. One of the main reasons for visiting this region is the opportunity to elephant trek. A one-day trek was ample time in my view, with the highlight being the lunch time stop at a river and the chance to wash the elephants. I would stress the importance of a little research to ensure you are using guides that do not exploit their elephants to maximise the tourist dollar.
Cambodia certainly offers an interesting cultural experience and some stunning world class sights. Its tourism infrastructure is not as slick and developed as some other South East Asian countries, which means you might need a little more patience with the basic tasks of getting around but the reward is that it's a little more authentic and you can still find places where you feel like you're discovering something new rather than being the four hundredth tourist already through that morning. It's probably summed up best with my most lasting memory of the place which is the amazing ingenuity, imagination and skill shown in transporting all many of objects and people on two wheels. No one else blinks an eyelid of course, except gob smacked tourists like me.